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Continuing on with bracing the back.

Here are the brace components ready to go. This probably looks familiar. Again, note an uncooked piece for comparison.

I am finding the thermally modified wood very easy to work with...it cuts and sands easier than unmodified.

Again, the first layer is comprised of 1/8" thick strips. I laid out my regular 6" square, but am gluing inside the lines for this smaller body


First layer done


Next, I glue in the center layer of pre-shaped parts, starting with the little X's. I use the small clamps to keep the layers lined up








Center layer done


Then I just need to glue on 2 more 1/8" layers


Done

And a low angle view


Next, I plane the tops to height


The final step is to carve the brace sides to a nice taper. Here is the first leg done


And all of them


A low angle view


Everything sanded, center back strip glued in (offcut from back plates), and brace ends carved




Now I just need to final shape the back linings by sanding on my dish mold and carve the brace pockets

Done

The back ready to glue


Box all closed, view from the top


And the back




More in the morning and I will add some comments about working with the thermally modified wood. Thanks for looking.

G

It's striking how humble looking the outside is and how dazzling the interior with those 2 cool bracing patterns.

Awesome work, Grant.

D

Dennis Leahy wrote:It's striking how humble looking the outside is and how dazzling the interior with those 2 cool bracing patterns.

Awesome work, Grant.

D

Thanks for the comment. That will change a bit with the binding. There will be a bark purfling line around the top. That, and a figured ebony fingerboard and peghead should dress it up a bit.

G

whitespruce wrote:

Dennis Leahy wrote:It's striking how humble looking the outside is and how dazzling the interior with those 2 cool bracing patterns.

Awesome work, Grant.

D

Thanks for the comment. That will change a bit with the binding. There will be a bark purfling line around the top. That, and a figured ebony fingerboard and peghead should dress it up a bit.

G

Oh, I have no doubt whatsoever that the guitar exterior will be handsome/beautiful - it just doesn't hint at what's going on inside the box.

Dennis Leahy wrote:

whitespruce wrote:

Dennis Leahy wrote:It's striking how humble looking the outside is and how dazzling the interior with those 2 cool bracing patterns.

Awesome work, Grant.

D

Thanks for the comment. That will change a bit with the binding. There will be a bark purfling line around the top. That, and a figured ebony fingerboard and peghead should dress it up a bit.

G

Oh, I have no doubt whatsoever that the guitar exterior will be handsome/beautiful - it just doesn't hint at what's going on inside the box.

Maybe I need to put some "viewing ports" in the sides

G

One more post to bring this p to date.

Moving on to the neck, here is what I am picking from for the fingerboard and peghead overlay

The peghead overlays are from a bunch of bookmatched figured ebony

And here is the final fingerboard with fret slots cut

and a bunch of phosphor bronze fret blanks cut

The fingerboard and glued up peghead overlay


Fingerboard ready to glue


Being glued on

Brass brads used for locating pins

Peghead is rough trimmed to shape and tuner holes drilled. My template for routing the inlay cavity is positioned and ready

I use a couple of dowels in the upper tuner holes to locate the template

Inlay routed and the tool I use

Nothing fancy, the rotary tool is just a friction fit in the base. I have been using this simple device for years

With the template removed


Stay tuned for more. I have selected koa bindings and end graft.

G

Grant,

I like it all. Nice to see your selection process and the headplate overlay looks like flames! Nice!

Jim

I really like the fret board head stock veneer combination. I also really like the idea of indexing the logo template to the peg holes and using a small template follower, a simple solution that I would have never thought of after many guitars.