Well filling the slot under the t-bar and gluing down the f/b overhang really stiffened up the neck/body join. Which is a good thing, only problem is I adjusted the neck set by trial without it so when I strung it up this time turns out I actually overset the neck, because now it doesn't dip in under tension so my action is too low. Wound up having to shim the saddle nearly 1/8", luckily it had a deep slot so it worked out.
The zero fret on this one is a much taller fret than the rest. I've read that a zero fret can be the same fretwire as the rest? Anyway this one was too tall made fretting at the first fret very hard, so I filed it down till it's just a smidge taller than the rest, works much better.
I didn't have a 12 string tailpiece so I used an old 6 string tailpiece and widened the bottom of each slot so two strings could anchor in each hole.
Holds the strings well, but stringing is a bit of a pain, you have to get the tension on both strings together to keep them centered in the hole. Might have to change this out down the line.
So here's how it looks,
Now contrary to what you might think, this is not "relic'd", see this is just the effects of leveling the sides and binding in the retop process, and rather than restain or paint to cover, I decided to let the history show.
Also took some 0000 steel wool to the neck and got rid of that horrible gloss plastic finish look it had. Looks and feels much better.
Anyway that's my story!
But the good news is, it sounds good and plays nice. Low action, leveled the frets, added side marker dots and it's ready to sing.
Joe
